The Karangasem region of Eastern Bali is an area steeped in history. We recently enjoyed a visit to Taman Ujung, the historic water palace that belonged to the last King of Karangasem. Located in a beautiful part of Bali, with stunning grounds and magnificent views across the ocean, it’s easily one of the highlights of our Bali travels. Sparking our interest in local history, we discovered that the King lived in nearby Amlapura and that his former residential palace is open to visitors. So with this knowledge, we headed off to explore Puri Agung Karangasem.
Where is Puri Agung Karangasem?
Puri Agung Karangasem is located in the city of Amlapura in the Eastern Bali region of Karangasem. Karangasem is probably best known for the tourist town of Candidasa, and the seaside villages collectively known as Amed. Puri Agung Karangasem is popular with Balinese and Indonesian visitors, who are knowledgeable in the history of the region. However, this historical Palace remains relatively unknown to westerners. We were excited to discover more about the last King of Karangasem.
The History Of Puri Agung Karangasem
Before we begin, we would like to acknowledge the Grandson of the Late King, I Anak Agung Made Arya Wangsa who provided much of the information required to put together this article.
Puri Agung Karangasem was built towards the end of the 19th century by the then King Anak Agung Agung Gede Jelantik. It was later renovated by his son, King Anak Agung Agung Anglurah Ketut Karangasem. It’s not a grand palace in the traditional European sense. However, it was designed with a unique blend of Balinese, European and Chinese architecture, linking it closely with the Kings Water Palace, Taman Ujung. The palace comprises three main parts, the Bencingah, Jaba Tengeh and Maskerdam.
The Becingah
Entry to the Palace is through towering pagoda-style gates. These gates house the spirits that protect those entering from any evil or offensive behaviour. Stepping through the gates, you enter the first compound called Bencingah. This area was used as a reception area to greet visitors to the palace. As you walk through, you will notice two rooms, one each to your left and right, that were used to house invited guests. The grounds in the Bencingah are well kept and provide an inviting welcome into the palace.
Jabah Tengeh
Proceeding through the next set of gates leads you to the second compound called Jaba Tengeh. This is the main garden area of the Palace and is still used by the descendants of the King. A feature of this area is Bale Kambang, situated in the centre of the pond. This bale is used for meetings held by the royal family and as a traditional dining area for the family. As is often the case with bale in Bali, it is also used as a storage place for gamelan, traditional Balinese musical instruments.
Well kept gardens surround this pond, featuring trees, shrubs and a wonderfully manicured lawn. Statues and water features surround the pond, while the pond itself is well stocked with fish. It’s common to see descendants of the Royal Family fishing on the banks of the pond. This whole area is a great place that simply invites you to just sit and relax while taking in the history of the area.
Maskerdam
Maskerdam is the inner court of the King’s palace. The name Maskerdam reflects the past ties Indonesia had with Dutch Colonists. The name itself is the Balinese pronunciation of the Dutch capital of Amsterdam. The main residence is here. Its external walls are adorned with many historical photographs of the King, the Royal Family and other dignitaries.
Stepping inside the residence you will find the dining table, where many official functions would have been held. To the side of this is the main bedroom, still set up to this day with modest furnishings.
Bale Pawedaan and Bale Pemandesan
Across from Maskerdam is Bale Pawedaan. This Bale is reserved for traditional tooth-filing ceremonies and is still used by the Royal Family to this day. It is also where the high priests sing the prayers that accompany the cremation rites that are held on the lawn of Maskerdom.
Directly opposite Bale Pawedaan is Bale Pemandesan. Bale Pemandesan is the cremation house. It is also where King Anak died in December of 1966 and was later cremated in January 1967. Since the passing of the King, Noone has lived in Maskerdam
Bale Ekalanga
To the East of Maskerdam is Bale Ekalanga, also known as the House of Bliss. This building was used as a ceremonial wedding house. It is now utilised as a museum for the wedding between the King of Karangasem and Lady Ratu Istri Oka Cakrakusuma of the Lombok Royal Family. This building is still used to this day as a ceremonial wedding house.
Bale Wreda Stana
Bale Wreda Stana was destroyed by the devastating earthquake of 1963, the same earthquake that caused considerable damage to the Taman Ujung Water Palace. This Bale was built in the same architectural style as Maskerdam. Entry fees to the Royal Palace are used to help in the ongoing rebuilding and restoration of this Bale to its former beauty.
How To Get To Puri Agung Karangasem
Puri Agung Karangasem is in the Eastern Bali regency of Karangasem. The main entry is located on Jalan Sultan Agung, in the city of Amlapura. Travelling from Candidasa, the closest major tourist area, will take about 30 minutes. And from Amed, you are also looking at about a 30 minute travel time to get here. From the south of Bali, you would be looking at the best part of 2 hours to get here.
Entry Fee And Amenities
There is an entry fee for adults into Puri Agung Karangasem of 30K IDR per person (approx $2.10 USD or $3.00 AUD). The entry fee is used to go towards the restoration of the Balai Wreda Stana, which was destroyed by the massive earthquake of 1963. There is no on-site parking, however, free street parking is available.
There are only limited amenities available on-site with a toilet block available for visitors. There is no food or drink available. Ensure you bring adequate water with you when you visit.
Planning A Trip To Puri Agung Karangasem
Given the distance from the major tourist centres of the south, many visitors may choose to incorporate a visit to Puri Agung Karangasem with a tour of other attractions in the area. Other nearby places include; Virgin Beach, a beautiful hidden beach near Candidasa, Taman Ujung, the Kings Water Palace; and Lempuyang Temple, with its famous Gates of Heaven, a favourite spot for Instagrammers. There are so many great places to visit in this part of Bali. The region deserves to be on everyone’s itinerary to spend at least a couple of days here.
Final Advice
Some helpful tips to ensure you get the most out of your Balinese holiday. Remember that you are holidaying in the tropics and the weather is hot all year round. You can easily spend an hour exploring Puri Agung Karangasem, plenty of time to become dehydrated. Drink plenty of water and wear a hat. Use sunscreen liberally, even during overcast days. The last thing you want is to spend much of your hard-earned vacation sunburnt.
