Travellers to the eastern region of Bali are attracted to the area’s isolation, diving and snorkelling and spectacular coastal scenery. It’s like stepping back in time to a slower, more laid back version of Bali of a generation ago. The waters are crystal clear, and the black sand beaches, lined with the traditional jukung canoes are picture-perfect. Sooner or later on your travels, locals will share with you information about a secret beach that they are all very proud of. Virgin beach, White-sand Beach or Pantai Perasi, call it what you may, is a beautiful beach. Read on as we discover what makes Virgin Beach, Candidasa so special.

The History Of Virgin Beach

Pantai Perasi, as it was originally known, has been a local secret in the eastern Bali region for many many years. The beach never really had a name, rather it was identified by the name of the nearby village in Karangasem that you travel through to access the beach. Perasi itself is a typical small village with the main street, lined with some shops and warungs. Gangs run off the main street providing access to most of the residential areas.

Over time, as more people became aware of the secret beach, visitors would ask the locals for directions to either “White-sand beach” or “Virgin Beach”. Initially, the locals didn’t know what people were referring to, however over time, they began to accept the new names for the beach. It is perhaps best known today as Virgin Beach, with most signage in the region identifying it as such.

Where Is Virgin Beach

Virgin Beach is located in the eastern Bali region of Karangasem. The region is perhaps best known for the tourist regions of Candidasa and Amed. As its located quite a distance from the main tourist centres of the south of the island, Virgin Beach is best accessed when enjoying a short stay in this part of Bali. To get here from Nusa Dua or Kuta in the south will take you approximately 2 hours. And from Ubud about 1.5 hours, all traffic dependant of course. From nearby Candidasa, the 9km journey will take you 20 minutes. And from Amed, you are looking at around a 50 minute drive through some spectacularly scenic areas. If you are looking for another great beach closer to the south of Bali, take a closer look at Melasti Beach.

Accessing Virgin Beach

There are two access points to Virgin Beach. The first, and best-known access is from Candidasa on Jl Raya Bugbug, turning right onto Jl Raya Bukit Asah. Be careful here as the first stretch of this road is very rough going up a small hill. Continue on, following the road for several kilometres. This road provides some spectacular views of Gunung Agung Volcano on your left. Definitely stop for photos if it’s a clear, cloud-free day.

After a short descent, you will come to a large car park. Don’t stop here. The main beach access closer to the warungs is off to your left. There is a sign to your left pointing to what could only be classed as a goat track. However, on the day we were there, it would have been more accurately called a cow track, with large bovines wandering freely along the track! This track splits into two, either way will bring you to the beach, with the left track bringing you closer to the most warungs.

The second access point, coming from the north is through the village of Perasi. Turn right onto Jalan Pantai Perasi and this will bring you to Virgin Beaches’ northern headland. Access is more difficult here with parking a considerable distance from the beach. This entry point tends to be more popular with the local Bali community.

On The Beach

Virgin Beach, Candidasa, is beautifully located within a small bay, bookended with high, treelined cliffs at each end, with coconut palms providing a tropical backdrop to the beach. The clear turquoise waters are wonderfully warm and inviting. The sand, definitely not white, rather a mix of black and gold, is soft and squeaks as you walk on it. But be careful as the sand gets extremely hot during the day, so keep your flip flops or thongs on. Another place with beautiful tropical beaches is Nusa Lembongan.

The area itself, though, could not be described as virgin. There has been quite a lot of development, particularly in the northern half of the beach. However, none of this has impacted the charm of the beach, it is definitely a very relaxing place to spend a lazy afternoon. As is commonly seen in Bali, warungs and bars line this stretch of beach. Each with several beach lounges and umbrellas placed out the front for rent. Hiring a couple of these for a day will set you back about 50k rupiah. You will likely quickly lose track of time as the warung owners supply you with a seemingly never-ending supply of food and icy cold drinks. And while you are hard at work relaxing, why not get a massage from one of the local ladies for less than 100k per hour.

The Southern End Of Virgin Beach

The Southern end of Virgin Beach is much less developed. Here, the fishermens jukung line the back of the beach. While there is not much to see during the day, if you come here early in the morning, you will see the local fisherman going about their day to day business. Some will be returning to shore after a pre-dawn fish with their catch of the day. Others will be busy making repairs to their nets.

The Waters Of Lombok Strait

Situated on the Lombok Strait, the water at Virgin Beach is crystal clear with a beautiful turquoise tinge. Very warm and inviting, it’s hard to resist the temptation for a swim. On the day we were there, the water was wonderfully calm for swimming and relaxing with a gentle wave lapping the shoreline. Candidasa and Bali in general, are blessed with Coral reefs. Virgon beach is no exception. Coral reefs, with an abundance of colourful marine life, are located just offshore which makes for easy access for snorkelling.

Snorkelling equipment is available for hire from the local warungs. A word of advice if we may. As with any ocean beach anywhere, conditions on the beach can vary from day to day. And at times, large swells make the swimming conditions hazardous. There were no lifeguards present when we were there. So please take responsibility for your own safety. If in doubt as to the conditions, do not swim.

Amenities And Facilities

As well as warungs and market stalls, Virgin Beach has plenty of amenities and facilities, and other services to meet the needs of its visitors. Clean and modern toilets, showers and change rooms are available throughout the precinct. Plenty of parking is available and included in your access price to the beach. There is even some limited accommodation available should you choose to stay here with limited Glamping options available. The location of these basic huts is second to none. Set back only a few metres from the beach, you will be waking up to uninterrupted ocean views.

How Much Does It Cost?

Like most other tourist attractions in Bali, there are costs to enter and park at Virgin Beach. Access per adult is 15K rupiah (approx $1.05 USD or $1.50 Aud). This fee also covers the cost of parking. Be careful where you park though, as some of the better parking spaces, such as the shaded spots are actually privately owned. And you may find yourself being asked to pay an additional 2K when you return to your scooter!

Transport To The Beach

Virgin Beach is relatively isolated. This isolation helps keeps the huge tourist crowds away and no doubt adds to the attraction of the beach. However, this isolation can make it more difficult to access. The easiest way is by scooter. These are available to rent all over Bali with prices starting from 60K rupiah per day. Private drivers are another good option with many local Candidasa drivers available for the day. Daily prices for a driver are around 600k.

Perhaps the very best, most picturesque and most enjoyable way to access this beach is via Jukung from Candidasa. A Jukung is a traditional Balinese outrigger canoe, that has been used by the local fisherman and divers for generations. While first impressions are of a small and narrow canoe, the jukung are actually very stable crafts. We have used them many times and have never felt unsafe in them. A journey by Jukung, following the very scenic coastal route, will take about 30 minutes each way. Prices vary depending on your negotiating skills with the fisherman. Allow up to 500k per return trip.

Final Thoughts

Remember that when in Bali, you are holidaying in the tropics. The sun is very strong and the weather is hot all year round. Drink plenty of water and wear a hat. Use sunscreen liberally, even during overcast days. The last thing you want is to spend half of your hard-earned vacation sunburnt. You can get more tips to help you get the most out of your Bali holiday here.